"POD" (podimus)
01/31/2016 at 15:14 • Filed to: None
3
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"POD" (podimus)
01/31/2016 at 15:14 • Filed to: None | 3
| 2 |
So I’ve been slowly doing a fairly complex audio install on my Genesis Coupe. Maybe complex isn’t the right word, unique is probably better.
I’ve been researching and designing an audio system that would allow me to have a full range 3-way set up all the way down to 30-40hz without impacting trunk space or seating space.
To that end, the first thing I had to do was replace the head unit, for that I went with an Parrot Android Smart. Personally, I really love the deck. Runs VLC (can play FLAC files), has navigation, and I can run Torque right off of it. Despite being an old Android platform, it’s very nice to have in the car.
Next up was to upgrade the woefully inadequate component speakers in the doors. Hyundai uses a paper cone woofer with no crossover (letting it run until cone breakup) and a super cheap tweeter with a single electrolytic inline cap. All junk.
Fortunately, I met another Genesis owner who had similar plans to upgrade their system, but didn’t have time or know-how to get it done. Because of this, he had a very nice 4-channel amp as well as a set of component speakers that he sold me for $150. New this set up went for around $800.
Now the speakers did involve a lot of work. I had to run new wires, cut into the door trim, and find a mounting solution for the crossovers.
I also ended up with a nasty rattle that I needed to resolve. Fortunately, Roofing repair tape works amazingly well for this and is far cheaper than Dynamat or the like.
The amp installation was mostly straight forward and I was lucky in that the amp was the exact size of the pass-through opening for the rear seat. No wasted space, out of sight, and it’ll make runs to the rear subs very easy.
But as with all my projects, things were going far to well and Murphy’s Law had to step in.
Enter, the delaminating crossover.
And here is where my backward progress begins...
I’ve had to take the door skins back off on both the diver and passenger side about 4 or 5 times now to re-solder the back of the crossover. The separation on the back keeps shorting the crossover out. Annoying is an understatement. More so when you consider I had to cut into my new door skins to mount the tweeters. At this point they are working again, but for how long, who knows. If they short out again I’ll likely just build a fully custom component set with custom crossovers and call it a day. Don’t want to have to do that, but I will if forced. When the speakers are working, the sound quality is acceptable. Massively improved over the factory system.
So this brings me to the part I’m most excited about. The Genesis Coupe has exactly 2.99 inches of mounting depth on a 6.75 inch opening for the rear coaxial speakers. Kicker just happens to make a 6.75 inch sub with 2.75 inches of mounting depth. This is perfect.
Running two of them off of channel 3 & 4 on the amp at ~150hz with bass boost turned up at 50hz, I’ll be close to an f3 around 40hz and have no impact on functionality of the trunk and rear seats (although you’d have to be a midget to fit in the back anyway). This will also give me more surface area than the 8 inch sub Hyundai has in the GT trim.
This will give me a true stereo 3-way set up (components running on channel 1&2 and subs running on channel 3&4) with a mix of active and passive crossovers to keep the drivers in check. I’m hoping to get the subs in next weekend when the temperatures rise back above zero (don’t want to pull trim panels when it’s below zero).
Even with just the components in the front I’ve got better bass extension, better clarity, and of course, better power handling.
So far I’ve got about 80 man hours into the project, while about half of that was hunting down rattles and fixing the crossovers, it’s still worth it.
The Crazy Kanuck; RIP Oppositelock
> POD
01/31/2016 at 15:33 |
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I’m curious, how accurate it the torque gauge. Is it a r-spec?
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POD
> The Crazy Kanuck; RIP Oppositelock
01/31/2016 at 15:36 |
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It’s simulated. I forget what is uses specifically. I think it’s engine load and RPM, but I’d have to go back to the forums to find out.
The oil temp gauge is very accurate though, and that’s the only important one of the three.